Rajasthan, land of the maharajas
No region of India matches Rajasthan for sheer pageantry. This is a desert state of walled cities, hilltop fortresses and palaces floating on lakes, where each former princely capital has its own colour and its own legend. Jaipur is pink, Jodhpur blue, Jaisalmer gold and Udaipur white, and travelling between them feels like turning the pages of an illustrated chronicle. Jaipur itself is usually covered as part of the Golden Triangle, so this guide moves quickly past the Pink City and concentrates on the desert kingdoms further west and south.
Jodhpur: the Blue City under Mehrangarh
Jodhpur is dominated by Mehrangarh, one of the largest forts in India, rising from a sheer rock about 120 metres above the rooftops. Behind its gates hides an excellent museum of palanquins, miniature paintings and princely armouries, and the ramparts offer the classic view over thousands of indigo-washed houses that gave the city its nickname. The adventurous can even ride a zip-line over the bastions and desert lakes below.
Down in the old town, life revolves around the clock tower and Sardar Market: spices, bangles, tea sellers and some of the best lassi in Rajasthan. The blue lanes just beneath the fort are perfect for an aimless morning wander before the heat sets in.
Udaipur: the Venice of the East
Udaipur drapes itself around Lake Pichola, and its skyline of white palaces and havelis reflected in the water explains the Venetian comparison. The City Palace, the largest palace complex in Rajasthan, is a labyrinth of courtyards, mirrored halls and balconies overlooking the lake; in its midst you glimpse the Taj Lake Palace, a marble palace on its own island that is now a luxury hotel.
The essential Udaipur experience is a boat cruise at sunset, when the palaces turn honey-coloured and temple bells drift across the water. Afterwards find a rooftop restaurant near the Ambrai ghats and watch the lights come on across the lake.
Jaisalmer: the Golden City of the Thar desert
Far out in the Thar desert, Jaisalmer rises from the sands like a sandstone mirage. Its fort is one of the very few living forts in the world: several thousand people still live inside the walls, among temples, guesthouses and tangled lanes. In the town below, the merchant mansions known as havelis, above all the five-fronted Patwon ki Haveli, display carving so fine it looks like lace.
From Jaisalmer almost everyone heads into the dunes. A camel safari with a night under the stars at the Sam dunes is the classic option: dinner by the fire, folk music and total desert silence. Choose a licensed operator, check that camels are well treated and take warm layers, as desert nights get surprisingly cold.
Pushkar and Bikaner
Two smaller stops round out the circuit. Pushkar, built around a sacred lake ringed by ghats, is one of Hinduism's holy towns and hosts the famous camel fair each November, when the desert fills with herders, pilgrims and acrobats. Bikaner, less visited, rewards the detour with Junagarh Fort and a well-preserved old town of red sandstone havelis.
Practical route: trains, time and bargaining
The royal cities are well linked by comfortable overnight trains, which save both time and hotel nights: Jaipur to Jodhpur, Jodhpur to Jaisalmer and back towards Udaipur are all popular sleeper legs. Book a few days ahead in 2A or 3A class for air conditioning and bedding.
- Allow 10 to 14 days for the full loop with desert time
- Best season: October to March; summer is brutally hot
- Bargaining in the bazaars is normal and expected, so smile and counter-offer
- Carry cash in smaller notes; ATMs are common in all the cities
However you route it, give Rajasthan time to breathe: the magic lies as much in rooftop sunsets and slow bazaar mornings as in the forts themselves.