North of the plains, India rises into some of the highest inhabited landscapes on Earth. The Indian Himalayas are not one destination but many: the high-altitude deserts of Ladakh, the green valleys of Himachal Pradesh, the Tibetan exile town above Dharamsala and the yoga ashrams of Rishikesh on the young Ganges. Each has its own season, its own culture and its own pace - and together they make up one of the great mountain journeys of the world.
Leh and Ladakh: Little Tibet
Ladakh, often called Little Tibet, is a high desert of bare rock, turquoise rivers and whitewashed Buddhist monasteries. Its capital Leh sits at about 3500 metres, and the single most important rule of the trip is written into every sensible itinerary: spend the first two days acclimatising. Do little, drink water, avoid alcohol - altitude sickness ruins more holidays here than anything else.
Once adjusted, the classics await. The monasteries of Thiksey, cascading down a hill like a miniature Potala, and Hemis, the richest in Ladakh, reward slow visits at morning prayer time. Further out lies Pangong Tso, the famous lake at about 4250 metres whose water shifts through impossible shades of blue; a permit is required, as it is for most border areas. The Nubra valley, with its sand dunes and double-humped camels, is reached over Khardung La - signposted at about 5359 metres and long celebrated as one of the highest motorable passes on the planet. The overland season runs roughly June to September; in winter the road links are cut and only flights connect Leh to the world.
Manali and the road to Ladakh
Manali is the gateway to the high mountains: a busy resort town whose quieter corner, Old Manali, keeps a backpacker soul of cafes and apple orchards. Nearby Solang Valley serves paragliding and winter skiing, and the Atal Tunnel now opens the once-remote Lahaul valley in minutes. The legendary Manali-Leh road is a two-day adventure across passes above 5000 metres - one of the most spectacular drives anywhere, best done with an experienced driver and a flexible schedule.
Dharamsala and McLeod Ganj: Tibet in exile
Above the town of Dharamsala, McLeod Ganj has been the home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government-in-exile since 1960. Pilgrims and travellers circle the Tsuglagkhang temple complex on the kora path, prayer wheels spin at every turn, and the momo dumplings are the best outside Tibet. The one-day trek to Triund ridge gives a grandstand view of the Dhauladhar wall and is achievable for any reasonably fit walker.
Rishikesh: yoga on the Ganges
Where the Ganges leaves the mountains stands Rishikesh, the self-styled world capital of yoga. Ashrams offer courses from a single class to month-long teacher trainings; the Beatles famously studied meditation here in 1968 at the Maharishi's ashram, whose graffiti-covered ruins can still be visited. Evening aarti ceremonies fill the ghats with fire and song, the Lakshman Jhula and Ram Jhula suspension bridges sway over the green river, and white-water rafting adds adrenaline to the spirituality.
Shimla and the toy train
The former summer capital of British India, Shimla, is best reached the slow way: the narrow-gauge Kalka-Shimla railway, a UNESCO-listed toy train that winds through more than a hundred tunnels of pine forest.
Practical notes
- Altitude demands respect: ascend gradually, and treat headaches and nausea seriously.
- Permits for Pangong, Nubra and other Ladakh border zones can be arranged online or through agencies in Leh.
- Pack in layers even in summer - a Ladakhi day can swing from hot sun to freezing wind within an hour.
- Budget guide: a shared taxi day in Ladakh often costs 2000-4000 INR per person, a thali dinner 150-300 INR.